All posts by CooperDan

GoSeaCamping.com

New Dyneema Rigging. Long Bury Splice how to: Part One. [Sea Japan Ep:26]

Decided to replace our old stainless wire standing rigging with new synthetic dyneema rope using the long bury method and low friction rings.

This video is an interview I did with an Australian rigger Peter Grieg.
I took this video, with the idea that I would use it as a guide when I did my own synthetic rigging. I was not intending to put it out on YouTube.
Other than adding a couple of bits for clarification, the video is unedited and starts when I turned on the camera.
It’s not organized into a step one, step two… Rather it is a simple hands on conversation with a very experienced rigger, who has a passion for spreading the word on synthetic rope and its many benefits.

This is Part One:
Peter goes over how to calculate, or measure, the length of the replacement synthetic stay.
How to correctly do a long bury splice in dyneema.
How to add a single and multiple low-friction rings.
Goes over his “width of palm plus thumb” rule.

Next Episode Part Two:
What I learnt in handling Dynice Dux dyneema.
Making my own s/s fids.
Mistakes I made.
What I would do differently.
Would I still go with dyneema or stay with stainless if I had a bigger budget and more time?
Breakdown and cost of the new synthetic rigging, covering(sheath), tools and low friction rings.

Update regards Covid19

Due to the Covid19 virus we are no longer taking mixed group tours until further notice.
Tiare will be available for single households or family groups only.
The health and safety of our customers and crew are of primary importance and we look forward to welcoming you aboard Tiare in the future.


Covid19ウイルスの影響により、現在混合グループツアーは実施しておりません。
ティアレは現在、単一世帯または家族グループのみでご利用いただけます。
お客様と乗組員の健康と安全が最も重要であり、近い将来ティアレで皆様とお会いできるのをお待ちしております.

What has been happening? [Sea Japan – Ep23]

Has been a while since I last uploaded a video.
In this video we
1/ Travel to Sado Island in Niigata to an open day for a Miyadaiku trade school
2/ Enjoy a local Shrine festival
3/ Hang the rudders back on Tiare

Video gets me close to current times.
Next video will be up to real-time

Part of the delay is that I have been trying to find a direction and purpose to the videos, other than as a personal diary.
So this episode I swap over from Go Sea Camping to Sea Japan, although the adventures of SV Tiare will continue.
I really hope to show Japan as the absolutely fantastic cruising destination it is.
But more on the direction of this channel over the next few episodes.

Hope to have Tiare up and sailing towards the end of August,
Next episode will cover the exhausting, yet somewhat successful, drama of getting Tiare back into the water., along with problems and solution to my aft mast issues.

Music from Artlist.io
Artists:
1: Spring in Barcelona by Ian Post
2: Burdens by Derek Gust
3: Vietnam Theme by Hanjo Gabler
4: Burnin down the house by Saint-anyway
5 Brown Eyed Girl, written by Van Morrison and performed by Sam, Tom, Taiga and Micheal live at Okappa cafe

Painting the hulls – Scrape • Sand • Paint

 

Well, I have finally done it. I’ve gone and painted my topsides.
And prepped my hull for a new generation of anti-foul.

This is a major milestone for me. Tiare has needed a hull repaint for a number of years, slowly becoming a little more drab with each small knock the tender makes on the side, and with the passing of time wearing thin the top-paint.

Now that she is on the hard, and I have access to some high quality and affordable paints, along with the time to spend on doing the preparation work. It feels good to take my time to do it right.

This was my first repaint and a steep learning curve, I  definitely acquired some new skills. Paint scraping is an art, sanding and painting is a trade.

Doing it right means I take all the old anti-fouling off, scrape and sand back to the hull’s base coat, and then apply several layers of super smooth epoxy coating before a final coat of a modern super slippery, long lasting anti-foul.
I have not yet decided on the final anti-fouling system, there are a few options available but I will make that decision closer to when I re-slip Tiare.

Took longer then I had anticipated, as my hands seized up daily after four to five hours due to  Carpal tunnel syndrome.
If you’re my age, and a tradie, you’ll know what I mean. If you’re reading this and you’re young, look after your hands!! Waking up every night at 2am, with your arms and hands on fire gets tiring real quick.
So although one hull side would take around 18 – 20 hours total to scrape clean, it would actually take around 5 days. And there are four sides!
Fortunately, we have an onsen/spa (hot baths) close by, a soak after a day of scraping felt really good and made the CTS manageable.

I didn’t do a roll and tip, as that really only works well with paints that are thinned out. Thinning out a paint reduces its gloss and you need to put more coats on to make up the thickness.
What I did was a coach or carriage style as it allowed me to put on just four thick un-thinned coats of top paint.
I wasn’t going for a mirror finish, as that takes considerably more effort in sanding and preparation, I think my hands would have failed if I had tried, and then there is the stress over the final application of the top coats.
What I wanted was multiple coats of solid un-thinned top paint of at least 3 coats (I ended up with four coats).
I am very happy with the results.

Marine Paints from CMP

For the epoxy primers and the top-sides finish coat, I have used CMP (Chugoku Marine Paints) here from Japan.
One of the deciding factors on using CMP was that they make their paint AND catalysers here in Japan.
When I order the paint it usually takes a week or so as they make it to order, it arrives very fresh 🙂 All 4kgs or 18kgs of it.
It is also inexpensive, e.g. 4kg of white is 6000¥ ~ 60 USD for a quality two-part urethane, with the top end Fluorex Finish at twice the price at around 12,000¥ ~ 110USD.
18Kg of epoxy primer, Bannoh 1500, was 12,000¥ ~ 110USD. 18 kg did four coats below the water line.

Links below

Coach painting

CMP – Chugoku Marine Paints
https://www.cmp-chugoku.com/global.html

Bannoh 1500 ( .pdf )

Click to access bannoh1500_en.pdf

Fluorex Finish ( .pdf )

Click to access fluorex_2p_en.pdf

Final repairs to our rudders plus a typhoon

 

With the starboard side rudder wood dried out. Both rudders are ready for sanding, glassing and filling ready for epoxy undercoats.

The starboard back stern repairs are all done and we go through a couple of typhoons. Nothing major and I enjoy the peace of mind that comes with being on the hard in a very sheltered area.

Next video it’s all about scraping 12 years of old antifoul and getting the hulls ready for an epoxy primer and new top coat.

Rudder Repairs, Woodworm, Kimonos & Fireworks

 

This episode I discover some unwanted guests in my SB stern post.
Find out that a scraper is my best friend, and I visit Yuge island’s summer festival.

Woodworm, every old sailing boat novel I read as a kid mentions the dreaded woodworm.
So what appeared to be a small crack in the paint, turned into a “worst case” scenario of woodworm boring through my sternpost, a real stomach dropping moment.

But although was bad, the epoxy glue lines seemed to have stopped it from spreading further.
So was a matter of taking the plunge and cutting a large chunk out of the sternpost, took a bit of nerve to make the first cut.
After that was a relatively simple job of carving a replacement part, fortunately I had been carrying some very hard wood onboard since Malyasia some 5? years earlier.
The wood, locally known as Chengal, a traditional boat building timber is very hard, glues well is rot resistant and also easy to work.
Wikipedia link here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neobalanocarpus

The rudders are off, the port side needs a simple scrape before fairing and new anti-foul.
Without a vacuum system electric tools are no good, plus I find that a simple scraper is the most effective tool for removing old anti-foul.

Yuge Island had its annual summer festival, the weather holds up and it was a fantastic afternoon.

Next video I repair the starboard rudder, which was damaged when we dragged in a typhoon 4 years ago.

Metal thru-hulls replaced with Composite

 

The summer heat is ongoing and slows progress down. Fortunately, I am working under the boat and in the shade but still, the humidity and heat takes the energy out of you.

Replacing our metal thru hulls and valves with Trudesign Composites.
http://www.trudesign.nz/marine.
Learn how to remove extremely well stuck thru hulls and drill holes for replacement thru hulls, along with a quick look at some thru hulls that had been eaten from the inside out.

Playing with acid

 

Now Tiare is out of the water, I take  down our Sillette Sonic Drives to replace the anodes, bellows, shaft seals and clean and fill the corrosion pitting on the lower legs, then give acid washing a go before acid etching  and a repaint.

Last winter I discovered that the SB side leg had water getting into the shaft so hoping it was just the shaft seals that needed replacing.

The PS leg pins were getting sloppy in their brackets, the answer was to fit some steel sleeves into them. Along with adding some high wear aluminum epoxy, to replace what the corrosion had eaten away around the pins.

And finally, time to grind off the 5 year old bitumen I had put on in Malaysia, and give the legs a good clean and fill up the bad pitting. Replacing grungy black/brown with a nice bright white.

Catch up Time – Ep17

Well it has been a few months since the last video.
Quite a few things have happened. Winter has gone, Spring has been and gone and we are now into the rainy season.
Sam our eldest son is now in living in Japan, Tom has gone up to Hokkaido for six months as an IT intern. And Tiare our 55 foot Wharram sailing catamaran was hauled (dragged) out and ready for a 12 month maintenance and makeover.
There is a very long list of jobs.

Would have liked to take more video of Tiare as she was hauled out but totally forgot about the video until she was out. Shame.